This Central Oahu Ohana has a particular affinity for the North Shore. In all fairness we like the Windward side as well but it’s about twice as far as Haleiwa or Mokuleia so we tend to hang out up here and turtle watch, paddle board or even better, both at the same time. For my Christmas gift this year, Laura woke me up, took me to the beach and introduced me to a new NS restaurant appropriately named “Beet Box Cafe”. I ordered something called “a plate of healthy food” YUM. I was in heaven.
There is no sign over the door yet, perhaps they are working on it. But the decor inside is pleasant… gorgeous wood tables (that look like koa to my untrained eye), and Lionel Ritchie throw pillows plus an amazing menu of gluten-free vegetarian items make this a place I’d like to be a regular. They have kombucha on tap and gluten-free doughnuts, though I have yet to try one. My second visit was today, this time with Chad and he liked it as well. Parking is ample and the atmosphere is laid back, just like the North Shore itself.
The North shore is very far from anything but itself, but it has an irresistible charm that makes me want to sell everything I own and buy a shack up there on the ocean. No Walmart, no Costco, no Target or anything remotely big box. Okay there is a McDonalds but that is about it. Plenty of food trucks, surf shops and shave ice-toting tourists and locals. Everyone seems to be rapturously in love with the small beach-town atmosphere of Haleiwa–gateway to the North Shore, if you will.
Besides surf and sand, Historic Haleiwa does boast some quaint little shops, art galleries and ‘A Scoop of Paradise’ ice cream parlor. We don’t frequent of these but it is fun to go see the glass blower in the shop window or to see the amazingly elegant Vietnamese Embroidery in the back room. Wyland galleries are a little too stuffy for our taste but nonetheless they do have some very incredible marine life sculptures.
But there is so much more to the NS than tourist town! I love to pretend I’m going to Mokuleia even if I’m going to Haleiwa, because the lighting on the Waianae mountain range is particularly stunning. It requires a little more driving but is totally worth it. I adore the Koolau range as well– there’s something almost awesome about these forested emerald mountains that reminds of how big God is and how small I am. But driving to the North, the mountains and meadows have an ambiance that is hard to put into words. And nestled serenely in the those hills is a monastery that is just the epitome of tranquility. It just feels like Julie Andrews might burst into “The Hills are Alive” at any given moment.
A stone’s throw from Mokuleia is Kaena Point and this is where the island ends. It is a great place to stargaze if it’s not the weekend or holidays when it is somewhat overrun by youth. No city lights, just the sound of the waves on one side and Orion’ s belt above you. Yes that’s about the only constellation we can identify without our phones but it still is mighty impressive.
Headed back tomorrow for some paddle boarding, if the weather allows. We like to paddle on the river because it’s calm and sometimes you can sight a turtle or two. Our biggest challenge is to remember to bring the paddles. I think we just need to leave them in the truck all the time. It’s an exercise in frustration to fight the traffic and then realize you left some of your gear at home. Because of course we only forget the paddles when the traffic is bad.
Never been a beach person before and not sure that once we leave I ever will be again. There is something about Hawaii’s beaches that spoils this mountain-loving girl. Except Waikiki. I totally don’t get the appeal of the South shore. But that’s a topic for another post.
Decidedly Different 